Member Avatar for Xplozive

Ok I don't know whether I need a new monitor or a new cable or something else is stuffed up here.

When I turn my (old) computer on (that i recently set back up), it usually gets to the login screen (it's only using Windows ME, will upgrade to XP once I am able to work it properly) and the monitor will turn off, and it makes the same noise when you push the button in to turn it on continuously and the light flashes.

Also, when I turn the monitor off then back on, only sometimes it displays and when it does it firstly displays fine then it slowly starts getting some small, scrolling, black lines then eventually turns off and creates the noise/flashing light.

Xplozive :D

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  • Latest Post Latest Post by Apollo_0

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Quick summary and safety note: the symptom described by — a picture that appears, develops fine lines or noise, then the monitor powers down and the front LED flashes — most often means the monitor itself is failing, not the OS. Treat it as an electrical fault: if there is any burning smell or visible heat, unplug the unit and do not continue using it. If this is a CRT, do not open it (high voltages are dangerous).

Practical diagnostic sequence (do these before thinking about repair):

  • Swap the power cord and video cable with known-good ones and try a different wall outlet or surge strip.
  • Isolate monitor vs PC: connect the suspect monitor to another working PC/laptop. Then connect a known-good monitor to the original PC. If the problem follows the monitor, the fault is in the monitor.
  • Watch the monitor OSD/menu when the image degrades. If the menu disappears along with the picture, that points to internal power/standby or panel/CRT circuitry; if the OSD stays but the image is gone, suspect the video signal or graphics card.
  • Boot into BIOS or safe mode (low resolution/low refresh) to rule out an out-of-spec refresh rate or driver problem.

What to look for if you open or inspect (only if comfortable and experienced):

  • Smell/burn marks, bulging or leaking electrolytic capacitors on the power board, or cracked solder joints at the power connector/stand area. These are repairable issues for someone experienced with electronics. Otherwise, get professional service or replace the monitor — repairs on older units often cost more than replacement.

Context with earlier replies: and are right to highlight heat and safety. correctly points to mechanical stress and solder joints as a cause. Use the isolation steps first; if the monitor fails the swap tests and shows physical signs of damage, retire or have it serviced rather than continuing to run it.

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Member Avatar for stampsUser

Ok I don't know whether I need a new monitor or a new cable or something else is stuffed up here.

When I turn my (old) computer on (that i recently set back up), it usually gets to the login screen (it's only using Windows ME, will upgrade to XP once I am able to work it properly) and the monitor will turn off, and it makes the same noise when you push the button in to turn it on continuously and the light flashes.

Also, when I turn the monitor off then back on, only sometimes it displays and when it does it firstly displays fine then it slowly starts getting some small, scrolling, black lines then eventually turns off and creates the noise/flashing light.

Xplozive :D

Were you able to resolve this issue? I am facing a similar issue where the monitor just turns off. The timing when it turns off is fairly random - sometimes on startup, and other times it is on for hours before it turns off. I double checked to make sure the power settings was turning the monitor off.

Member Avatar for jai614

heat can somethimes be the culprit
if you have it backed up against the wall, try moving it foward to encourage airflow
I once had a monitor with similar symptoms and only by hitting it would i get my picture back, then i realized it was the heat. So i put a fan on it, that helped but the monitor did die a few months after.
so be ready to spend the bills

Member Avatar for nizzy1115

Yeah, it sounds like it is about to blow. (Maybe litterally). I had to go replace one like that over the summer. It actually started to burn inside and went up in a bunch of smoke, nearly setting off the smoke alarm. Be careful that you don't let that one catch on fire!

EDIT: This was more meant for the first poster, but i didn't realize that someone brought back this thread from last year! Opps

Member Avatar for Apollo_0

Ok I don't know whether I need a new monitor or a new cable or something else is stuffed up here.

When I turn my (old) computer on (that i recently set back up), it usually gets to the login screen (it's only using Windows ME, will upgrade to XP once I am able to work it properly) and the monitor will turn off, and it makes the same noise when you push the button in to turn it on continuously and the light flashes.

Also, when I turn the monitor off then back on, only sometimes it displays and when it does it firstly displays fine then it slowly starts getting some small, scrolling, black lines then eventually turns off and creates the noise/flashing light.

Xplozive :D

Not sure what monitor this is, but the normal cause is either a faulty de-sub cable, or worst case broken motherboard.

If by moving the monitor on its stand backwards and forwards, or applying pressure simulates the fault condition, then I would say you have a brake on the main board around where the stand connects to the base of the monitor.

This is a common fault with monitors which use a metal base instead of plastic. Seems like they are better made but it's not. With it being a metal base, if you place the monitor down after moving a little hard, the metal bends and splits the board, where as plastic is allot more forgiving.

Member Avatar for Apollo_0

Yeah, it sounds like it is about to blow. (Maybe litterally). I had to go replace one like that over the summer. It actually started to burn inside and went up in a bunch of smoke, nearly setting off the smoke alarm. Be careful that you don't let that one catch on fire!

EDIT: This was more meant for the first poster, but i didn't realize that someone brought back this thread from last year! Opps

You fault would have beena dry joint around the input power connector, or deguss varister. Again, a quick re-solder would have solved it.

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