Posts by Suspishio

I have this phenomenon on Vista HP, but the SLEEP tab doesn't have "Allow Wake Timers". It has

Sleep After
Allow Hybrid Sleep
Hibernate after

Maybe there's a registry entry someone knows about that can be altered in HP.

You right click on the bottom taskbar and select Task Manager. In Windows Task Manager, you go to the Processes tab. Dead simples.

Then you left click the word CPU (twice) so that the highest usage item appears at the top.

You post a screenshot or list it all out nicely.

The main point about this thread (which I can't find any more either, even with a crafty search) is that be uninstalling BONJOUR, the Error 1603 went away. It looks like they purged stuff pre October 2008.

How stupid.

Generically, the absence of a POST screen pr beeps at boot up means that it's buggered. The CPU has to execute the ROM BIOS. If it can't, nothing can happen.

It can be anything on the motherboard that prevents the CPU from working or the CPU itself has gone. A power glitch can do parcically anything to a PC.

I'm surprised nobody else has ventured an opinion.

A damn fine answer from kfawcett that will be much appreciated by many who don't quite know what's what with licences.

I'll take your word for it on RAM and knock that off the suspect list.

Your processes list came out rather un-columned if you know what I mean. But it showed NO CPU usage. What is using CPU at the same time as CS?

Another thought, going back a few years - we did a lot of configuring to CS 1.6 to get the FS up to 60 (WOW). In the end, it was a combination of settings we got from the CS forum with a downgrading to Direct X 7 as one of the parameter specs. Does that ring a bell? Has any update occurred to Direct X with the usual Windows updates?

click here to know more

LOL!

Aaagh. 256Kbps. I'm amazed that you ever got to even 30fps on CS. You must live miles from anywhere.

Anyway, you said that your fps is poor when you play offline. That's important information. From a distance, diagnosis would be:

1/
Either your cpu is being utilised by something else. A list of running processes sorted in CPU usage order from Task Manager would help.

2/
Or your RAM usage is high and you're constantly swapping. There's data in Task Manager too for that.

Let us know.

use the program in Suspishio post and it will tell you who made your old ram and what speed it is that was hi reason for linking the program to help answer your questions ,and solve the reason for the old and the new not working together

That is so.

It's a shame you have to buy a card. My diagnosis may not even be correct, though it's logical. I recommend, if you do buy, the cheapest NVIDIA card you can find with 256MB RAM. They're not expensive.

Well, you're there right in front of your PC and we're here, perhaps thousands of miles away. The usual forum diagnostic problem.

So, on the basis of your words, the next place to look is your broadband connexion. Say, for example, in the past two years your pipe to the head end has had many more connexions attached and they're streaming or Counterstriking - you'll see your FPS fall away.

We know nothing about your broadband connexion, so perhaps we should move to that with a full description of everything you can tell us.

Great. Then you'll be marking this thread as SOLVED!

Hi everybody.
I have a problem and I need some suggestions.

A few weeks ago, my monitor suddenly turned off on its own. Then I shut down my computer and switched it on again, and after 5 minutes the monitor turned off again. This happened several times in a row.
Some hours later I turned on the computer and it was working OK.
But recently when I turn the computer on, the monitor periodically switches on/off for several times before it "stabilizes". The little green light the monitor has also switches on/off.

What do you think is the problem? Do I need to buy a new monitor?
If it helps, I have a ViewSonic VE710s.

Thank you

I'm assuming that power actually goes off and this is not an error code blinking on the power LED. On that assumption, logically it should be one of three potential causes:

1. The power section of the monitor is intermittent/faulty

2. The incoming power connector is insecure (that's prolly the first thing you looked at)

3. The power main plug/socket is faulty or the power cable is kinked.

The first thing I would do is borrow or use another monitor and lead and power lead to see what happens.

We'd prolly need to see what else is runnig. A list from Task Manager/Processes would be helpful (sorted by CPU usage).

e.g. new anti-virus version now using more CPU.

In my opinion, if the machine boots (you see disk activity as per normal boot) but the screen stays blank at all times then there is usually something wrong in the output side of the video card, or the cable.

If you used the same cable when connecting to other machines, we can rule out the cable.

There's not much you can do if the Boot screen isn't shown other than to borrow or buy a video card, boot into Safe Mode (if you see the screen) and deal with the drivers at that stage for the new card.

If it still doesn't work, then there's a fault not detected in POST with your motherboard, IMHO.

Keep us informed.

Load Windows in Safe Mode (Press F8 during boot) and it will display in VGA. Then you can deal with the driver and boot again normally.

For what my opinion is worth, if price is an issue, DELL laptops (other than the very cheapest) do not suffer the quality issues of HP.

To answer your question we need to know:

1/
The full model name of your computer

2/
The original RAM model details

3/
The new RAM model details

What I'd be looking for is that you'vve unknowingly bought slower RAM of the same type than your mweotherbboard is set for.

You could go to www.CPUID.com and download CPU-Z. Run it and post all the results. This will provide important innformation about the setup.

Try reseting the BIOS, CMOS and see if it help, just make sure you change all the setting on your first boot. Look for any loose or not plug wires in the motherboard. What i would also do, is check that memory in another pc see if it's good.

This is imnportsnt advice. The CMOS stores the configuration. When you add memort, especially if it happens to be where the boot ROM loads itslef, if the CMOS is not in a state of grace, it won't load.

So short the CMOS pins, return the jumper to the correct position and when you boot, if there was no other problem, the CMOS will repopulate itself and it might work.

Perhaps you could do this search in Google: "led screen circuit diagram"' there appears to be something to get your teeth into.

@Adamsappleone

First, let me say that the advice you are providing to the OP is entirely valid and I'm not challenging that, especially the stuff I omitted (defragmentation etc).

Second, on disk RPM, seeing as you gave me RAM, I can concede that point to some extent. With my eye for detail, when everything else is equal, disk RPM is an important performance factor. But then everything else isn't equal as your example shows.

Your illustration is instructive. It tells us that comparisons only on the same machine type and configuration can be meaningful.

If you've got several drives, there's boot activity associated with that. Different drivers associated with different equipment have different load characteristics - perhaps not much but it all adds up.

What I can guarantee is that on two identically configured PCs, save for CPU power, the faster PC will boot soonest. CPU does matter and is one of the variables.

Anyway, the OP can make sound progress by reducing startup stuff as you've suggested to the minimum needed to do purposeful stuff.

Third

The information in the link mayhelp you to understand the codes and proceed further with your investigations.

http://h30434.www3.hp.com/psg/board/message?board.id=General&message.id=2310

4 Beeps sound like RAM to me - depends on which BIOS you have. I suspect that these are secondary symptoms (possible motherboard damage) caused by the power cord problem.

When you took the RTC battery out, you prolly reset the CMOS which POST can then re-populate. So now the Boot ROM is working properly and has found faults indicated by the beeps and LEDs. Hopefully the link I've given you takes you forward.

One to store for reference.

It would be nice if the solder whizzos here could also come in and share what they've found on repaired laptop mobos.

larry
thank you please tell me how i can go to prior configration
thanks

google "how do i go back to last known good configuration".

Also google "How to restore my windows system".

Also Search this forum. It's all here including the IRQL_NOT stop code.

What does "hang up" mean? We need some more precise information.

What happens if you just disconnect his ethernet cable with the PC still running?

If you get no boot data on the screen from the ROM BIOS and if you're sure there is no continued disk activity to indicate that it is booting through, then it seems to me that it can't execute the ROM BIOS. That's a CPU or motherboard failure.

If it boots through because there's obvious disk activity, then I suggest it's screen of VGA circuit failure.

Either way, it's knackered, I'd say.

Hope I'm wrong.

You can google this and you'll find a lot of it around.

Usual reason is a capacitor or a piezo component has failed in the monitor. I've got one of those and it eventually comes on after about an hour when the capacitor is charged (I guess).

Onboard graphics should work when you remove a graphics card. Maybe there is a BIOS setting you can change with the graphics card in, to enable onboard VGA.

In any case if your onboard VGA was working, your Boot screen would at least appear.

Well, the starting point is the inside power connector and avenues off that might flex when you wiggle the connector. I suspect you've either got a naff power socket in the laptop or some dry joint behind.

Cure that and we'll see what else is cured.

No guarantees, obviously. You're there and we're a long way away.

The additional info you've now provided (wrt your other thread) is key information. If you have to jiggle the power input, there's an internal hardware condition that needs fixing.

That's the end of it really. Whoever fixes it can check that the other symptoms disappear.

If you have the funds, dump this HP crap and never buy another, IMHO. But if you keep it, you can't get round having to fix the power supply problem.