Posts by techsheaven

I'm not sure what the question in all of that was, but It sounds like you had an IP conflict, and figured it out. If you are still having a problem, maybe you could give more specific details about your adaptersetting, and what our hope to accomplish.

_Adam_33,
Where you able to get this done? If so, please mark this as complete. If not, I will walk you through it.

What type of internet access do you use?

When we talk about length limits for DSL, there is the twisted pair from the Central Office to the modem, and the two or more twisted pairs from the modem to the PC. 25000ft is the untreated theoretical length limit to the modem. The 300ft limit would be for Ethernet.

PPP means Point to Point. There is no room for a third node in the arcitecture, but you can run Ethernet on two twisted pairs of wires! Just use pins 1&2 with one pair, and 3&6 on the other pair to two RJ45 jacks, and a couple patch cords. Postback here if you need more details!

Phone wires travel from the Central Office, to (and through) your home as a twisted pair. The pair of wires is twisted to cancel cross-talk (foreign noise induced on the pair). The quality of your connection is dependent on a SNR(signal-to-noise ratio). Using a long line-cord is not the best idea, but if you have no issues, give it a try. I would get a baseline SNR near the jack, and compare it to the SNR on the long line-cord. It would be in the modem transciever statisitcs under SNR, or Noise Margin. Make sure you are comparing apples for apples though... make sure your downstream and upstream data rateson the second test match the rates on the second!

You simply have an IP conflict; both devices are on 192.168.1.1. Just change one device to 192.168.1.2, and your conflict will be gone. You need to have one of the devices correctly authenticate, or you will have intemittent/no sync issues!

Did you resolve this issue? I would love to walk you through it if needed.

What is the model of your system?

Likely you ned to install the driver, or there is a device conflict on your system. Open the device manager and look for yellow exclaimation marks in the list of devices. Remember that a rogue or faulty device may be using the recources needed by your network adapter!

Just so you know, if one of the computers are compromised, they all are!

Please go to device manager and show hidden devices again.

This time, scroll so that all disabled/troubled devices can be seen, and take a screen-shot as follows:

press the PrtSc key
open MS Paint
from the edit menu, select paste
save the file
post it here

I would also like to look at a HijackThis log. You will need to download, install and run it, saving a log file; then post it. Here is a link:

http://download.cnet.com/Trend-Micro-HijackThis/3000-8022_4-10227353.html

Good Luck

Uninstall firefox and all old/broken antivirus/antimalware programs.

Reinstall avast

Run avast boot time scan (quarantine or delete all detected objects).
http://download.cnet.com/Avast-Free-Antivirus/3000-2239_4-10019223.html

Download, install, and run Emsisoft Anti-malware (quarantine or delete all detected objects).
http://download.cnet.com/Emsisoft-Anti-Malware-Free-Previously-A-squared-Free/3000-8022_4-10262215.html?tag=mncol;2

Download, install, and run HijackThis and post the report here
http://download.cnet.com/Trend-Micro-HijackThis/3000-8022_4-10227353.html?tag=mncol;1

Good Luck

You could enable pop on the yahoo account(for a fee), or forward all of your yahoo mail to Windows Live Mail

Good Luck

The security would be the biggest problem.
Do you have remote access to a computer on the came network as the remote printer?
How is the printer attached?

I would recommend sharing files via a Network Attached Storage device, but only copies. This is general advice though. Give us more details about what you want to achieve, and we can help you reach your goals.

We ask "clarifying questions" to make sure we understand the issue. Don't be offended by warnings... many of work in IT all day, and try to help here in the evenings. I personally, like to see threads resolved, because others are looking for answers too.

Did you find a resolution for the problem, or can we help you work through it?

Why not make it a slide show from a PC?

Here are some ideas:

http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/powerpoint-help/create-a-powerpoint-presentation-for-a-kiosk-HA001034818.aspx

http://www.planetpdf.com/creative/article.asp?ContentID=6654

http://www.ehow.com/how_12021815_make-presentation-loop-continuously-impress.html

Must be FAT32!?

I'm not sure I follow everything you are saying. Right-click My Computer and select Manage. Click Disk Management to view Volume information.

What is it that you hope to do? Is this a data disk, or System Volume?

I'm sure you know this, but I will say it for others who may be reading... REALLY BAD IDEA!!! Sharing the system drive is asking for problems, but I'm sure you have your reasons...

Was the user profile created after the share was created?
Can you access other folders on the machine?

Can you offer some history? Was it working perfectly before it stopped working? I assume that you plugged it in; are you sure the charger is working? Did you recently drop it, or trip/pull on power cord? ...

There a lot of things that can cause a notebook to not start, so giving us some background may help lead us to the most likely cause.

I was looking for the users manual for your model, but couldn't find it. I did find a manual for that series. I believe holding the Fn key, and pressing the F5 key should toggle the "monitor priority" setting. This allows you to set the external monitor monitor as the primary video display. Try that key combo several times, and see want happens.

Do you hear any beeps at startup?

No, I would think it is the lid switch, or a bad inverter(part of the screen). Check out this:
http://www.insidemylaptop.com/images/Dell-Inspiron-1300-B120-B130/power-jack-repair-19.jpg
Sometimes this switch goes bad, so the screen goes off. I often find someone spilled their lunch, or some dirt is wedged in there. Also, the lid being loose can cause problems.

Did you check out the tiny lid switch? Sometime they go bad, or stick. I suspect that is not the problem, but it is the first place to start.

Since you see numbers counting, I guess it must be the Basic Input Output System (BIOS) doing a Power On Self Test (POST). Normally, systems would be set to skip this. So the question is, why is the POST counting your Random Access Memory (RAM)?
Either someone set it to count the RAM (disabled a quick-boot option in the BIOS), or the system recognized a problem, and is trying to resolve it.

Next, I would try setting the BIOS to defaults. Watch the screen when it starts, to find out how to enter the BIOS Setup (usually the Delete key will work, but commonly an F-key).

If your external screen didn't work, I would say to test your RAM, but it does... There is a F-key on many laptops for blanking the screen, but it won't usually stay blank... And it wouldn't be a driver, since the screen blanks before the Operating System is given control...

Get a really bright light, and shine it at an angle on the screen (with the external monitor unplugged). Can you see see a faint image?

I was just reviewing our posts, and realized I asked the model when it was in the title! Oops... Anyway, if the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) itself is broken, it's looking grim... I would bring the board to an electronics shop and see what they recommend. A bad MOBO is usually a Notebook killer. They usually cost about $150 and that's a long way toward a new laptop.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-F5VL-X50VL-Motherboard-p-n-08G2005FL20J-REV-2-0-/140641415418?pt=Motherboards&hash=item20bee1b0fa
(I don't know if that is yours, just an example)

No, they are correct, the motherboard is broken... the DC Jack (socket) is part of the motherboard!!! Most PC repair shops don't want to fool with such repairs because they are time-consuming. The entire machine needs to be disassembled. This problem is VERY common; I have fixed hundreds of them.

Usually, it is just the jack (socket); a component on the mainboard. If that's all it is, it can be fixed.

A Lenovo should be exactly the same as yours as far as the specs I can see online:
110vAC
19v
3.42A

So I would look at this:
http://www.amazon.com/POWER-JACK-ASUS-X50R-X50VL/dp/B005Z7AUNU

As you can see, the construction is cheap; these break all the time. They are easy to solder on. The worst part is disassembling the entire Laptop, but it is a cheap fix (about $5 with shipping)!

I think you will find out your battery works after is gets a full charge.

As far as soldering goes, I would use a solder wick. There are solder-suckers out there, but they can be tricky to use. Use a thin rosin-core solder. Heat the connections and let them melt the solder, and work as quickly as you can so you don't damage the board or new jack. The biggest mistake rookies make is to melt the solder and let it drip on cold components. When they do that, it won't stick well.

http://www.ehow.com/video_4435740_use-solder-wick-remove-solder.html

Good Luck

You did not say what model. Some Toshibas have a Jack (socket) like this one:
http://www.ny-shop.us/DC-Cable-Jack-Harness/DC-JACK-POWER-SOCKET-CABLE-TOSHIBA-C655-S5082.html
You may be able to borrow an adapter to verify that the jack is OK. Again, make sure it fits snugly, and the volts and mAmps are correct (mAmps may be higher, but not lower).

Good Luck

Did you try removing the keyboard - that is, disconnect the ribbon to the keyboard and boot using only the external (known-good) USB keyboard?

Charging the battery, and running the computer is a huge demand on the power adapter; some will automatically shut off. If you have other external devices connected, the demand is even greater - often beyond what the adapter can put out.

I often see this problem on computers where the power adapter is old, wires damaged, or it has been replaced with one that has a lower output amperage. For best results, you should buy a new adapter with the same voltage rating and the same(or higher)amperage rating. They are under $20(USD)!!!

Running a laptop under perfect conditions without the battery, is ok. With a intermittent connection on your power adapter, the battery becomes more important to prevent data corruption and/or hard drive failure.

Good Luck

Probably just a scratch on the disk. Try cleaning with dish soap and warm water. If that fails, you could try SkipDr

http://www.heartlandamerica.com/browse/item.asp?PIN=123026&DL=GAW1&SC=WIG20001&

DVD/CD drives are not all the same. You could try another drive; sometimes one will read through scratches better than another.

Good Luck

Sounds like someone was poking around in your BIOS. Can you access it? If you want to post a model number, we could help more.

Post here when you get more info.

I would remove the keyboard completely, and try the USB keyboard (unplug all other external devices). After that, I would check Sticky Keys in Accessibility Options. I guess my line of reasoning is that some key combo is active (and sticky) in the Windows desktop environment that is not active in the Welcome Screen.

It would also be interesting to know what happens if you boot via a Linux Live CD...

Are you hearing any beeps or seeing any errors at startup?

Let us know what you find out.

Is it on-board video (part of the main board), or off-board video (plugged into an expansion slot)? If you have both, try each; if neither works, remove the off-board video card, and plug your monitor into the integrated VGA port.

Let us know what you find out, and we will continue troubleshooting.

Maybe you should start from the beginning and give more information... IF it had an MBR, it WAS a system drive. If you changed the partition type, the old data may no longer be accessible. Not all Partition types are supported by all Operating Systems. If you are being prompted to format the drive, then the formatting is not recognized by the System.

Post back here with some details, and hopefully we can get you taken care of.

Another note:

I mentioned some ways you could check the power cord, to verify where the problem lies. PLEASE fix the problem when you find it... LOOSE CONNECTIONS CAUSE FIRES!!!
I have seen people wrap tape, string etc. around cords and plugs to keep them working, rather than fixing or replacing the part.

Write back to let us know what you find out. I want to help you fix it right.

Good Luck

The most common issue, is the power jack and/or the power adapter. Make sure the jack (socket) is not loose inside the computer; they often have broken solder, or are broken from someone tripping over the cord. Also, check that the plug is the correct one for the laptop, and fits snuggly. Sometimes the wires can be broken inside the insulation in such a way they the connect intermittently. Again, this is usually caused by someone tripping over the cord. Sometimes the wires are damaged by twisting them too much.

If your laptop has an indicator on the front that lights when it is off and plugged in, try gently wiggling the plug in the socket and see if the light blinks. You could also bend the cord to see if the is an internal break. Also, be sure the high voltage cable is plugged tightly into the power adapter "brick."

If you can get the power light to come on, and stay on, try charging your battery with the power off over night. In the morning, make sure the light is still on (though it will have likely turned from amber to green). Start the laptop, and verify that the battery is at 100%. Disconnect the power cord, an allow it to discharge until it reaches less than 20%. Charge and discharge it 10-20 times. This is called exercising a battery. Keeping a laptop plugged in causes some batteries to develop a memory:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Memory_effect

I think you mean "processes" rather than "processors."

Yes, all processes should be listed, but that answer may be misleading. Remember that the name of the program (code or instructions) may not be the same as the name of the process that executes it.

People who ask such questions, are usually looking for some malware. This is not the best way to do that since code is usually executed by a legitimate system process.

Good Luck

We want to help resolve this issue! We just need more information.

Have you tried the troubleshooting measures? Another thought is dust and/heat issues. Sometimes dust will build up and cause static and heat problems. Dust is also a simi-conductor; it will cause all kinds of problems. Also, make sure that all of your fans are working!!

Let us know what you find out.

That goes back to reballing.
Again, the real fix is more expensive than the card. I have actually done this (start at about 9 minutes) and it worked great! Skip the part about the copper shim - that is a rework for that exact board. Just be sure to use a good silver based heat-sink compound. I think you will find it works for you. Pay attention to the warning that over-heating the chip will destroy it... but so will running it with an intermittent connection. :)

If you try it, post the results to the community, so others can learn from your success or failure.

Good Luck

Probably time for a new card. :(

When you replace it, you may want to consider a slot fan to keep the same thing from happening again.

I would go to "Turn Windows Features on or off," and uncheck IE there. If I remember right, it askes you to to reboot. Whent you log back on, re-run the IE you tried before.

Good Luck

It sounds like you have some malware that has messed up your registry.

I am very interested in making sure this gets resolved.

I would normally ask you to download, install, and run combofix from bleepingcomputer.com, but their site is down right now. . . Maybe you could try it later?

The other thing you could try is to uninstall the "newer version," then install the downloaded version:

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/how-do-i-install-or-uninstall-internet-explorer-9

Also, you could read this:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/313222

Let us know what you find out.

Good Luck

There are two white clips that hold the heat sink to the board. You can replace the whole chipset cooler if you can find or buy one. Fans like this are intended to be part of the heat sink, but they usually have three tiny screws (between the blades) that you can remove to get the black fan part off of the heat sink. You can then find a donor and mount it over the heat sink if you don't have the right one. This is a back-yard type of fix, but it will let you know if it works before buying one. If the donor fan does not have the same pins to plug to the board, just make sure it operates at the same number of wires, volts & amps, and you can splice the wires. Just be safe and make sure you ask someone to help if you need. Also, depending on the donor fans you can get, you can plug them in on the system board, or a molex connector (hard drive/cd-rom).

You may find that just getting a working fan in it solves the problem!

Good Luck

Usually, you can remove the old fan and mount a stock fan. As far as how you do that would depend what you are left with.

OH!!! And always end any interview by asking, "If you were in my shoes, what questions would you ask (and why)?"

If you are a programmer, are are in the related field ... And programming IS making software!!

So you will use some methodology whether it is the "fly by the seat of your pants" method and making spaghetti code, or organizing your time, resources, abilities, and ultimately, your code using a standardized method.

Here are some basic questions (that may help you develop more):
-What Methodologies does your company use?
-What Methodologies do you find useless?
-Why . . . ?
-When . . . ?
-How . . . ?
-Where . . . ?
-Who . . . ?

It may help to focus your questions on what makes a good employee... How those that don't play by the rules (established methodologies) cause problems ... How those who do work within the methodological framework are valued. It can't hurt to drop a seed or two since you may be re-visiting the same potential employer. This time he will be asking the questions, so it won't hurt to have some of the answers he is looking for! :)

I see. I guess I didn't read carefully!

What is the signal strength?
Is it fluctuating?
Is it an 802.11 A, B, G, N, or what? Mixed mode? You said older, what model #?
Do you (or a close neighbor) have wireless devices (like cordless phones) operating in the network range? If so, there is your "textbook case of a certain problem."
(802.11a = 5Ghz, 802.11b = 2.4Ghz, 802.11g = 2.4Ghz 802.11n = 5Ghz and/or 2.4Ghz)
What channel is the router set to use?
Do you have any devices using a static IP address from the DHCP pool?

To determine if IE is registered,

-Hold the Windows key and press R
-In the Run dialog box, type the following and press ENTER: iexplore

If IE does not start, try downloading and installing it:

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows/downloads/windows-vista

Let us know what your progress is.

Good Luck