Posts by jak0b

I have no idea about prices in your area, so I will only suggest in general.
I recommend that you buy at least core i5 4.gen. CPU (i7 might be better if you can afford it ofc. - some encoding software use multicore better, and thus work faster)
motherboard could be ASUS, MSI or similar big-brand. (all support BlueRay if SATA-300 or better) - go for the best offer in your area
No less than 8GB, 1600 MHz RAM (preferable 2x8=16 GB)
If possible - add a high end GFX (Nvidia Titan, GTX 780-ti, or better), or keep it in mind for future upgrade.
a good powersupply - at least 650-800 Watt if you plan to upgrade GFX later.
The box is not important - reuse an old one if possible.

copying is of cause faster on SSD, but f.ex. my WD-Red series 4 TB disk transfer ~60 MByte/sec average on huge files (+50GByte).

It can be an error in Microsoft's servers - you should contact them. :)

it depends on what system - try to type help in the prompt, and then you will get a list of possible commands for your particular version of OS

Try this, open the original email -> right click on the photo, and select "save as" or "save" on the menu, and save the picture in a folder where you can find it, and attach it to the new email.
I know it isn't the easy way, but I think it will work. :)

It might still be a hardware issue, even if it isn't located directly in the keyboard.
I suggest you try to boot from a linux-distro cd, or hirens boot cd, to test if the error is persistent.
If not a hardware issue, I think you should first try to create a new user account (and log in to that acc.), to see if the windows installation is working, and if the problem is related to the user account (might be some weird corruption in system files on the user account). Or, you can just rename the "user account"-folder if you boot to mini-xp from Hirens cd, and log in again as the user.
The user account folder is usually located in C:\documents and settings\

Hiren's boot cd download

The error code depends on your bios manufaturer.
http://www.pchell.com/hardware/beepcodes.shtml

Or check the MB manual for the code :)

If you don't even get a beep, you probably have a short somewhere.

A very common error, is that you might have bent a pin in the cpu socket.
They are very tiny and is easily bend, so check if you can see if anything is wrong in the socket.

Another common error is that you might accidentally have damaged something (cpu or motherboard most probably) with ESD (electro static discharge), and if that is the case, you have to RMA the damaged parts.

I suggest you read this before doing any further:
http://support.necam.com/mobilesolutions/hardware/esdhandle.asp

The procedure now is that you have to isolate the damaged part(s).
You might need help from a friend, or you might have an old pc that you can use as spare parts for testing purpose.

First try to remove anything non-essential from the pc.
It will be able to boot to bios, with only a PSU, MB, CPU, 1 RAM stick, and a graphics card. (if all parts is working ofc.)
If you can get it to boot like this, you can very likely rule out both of the common errors in the top of the post. :)

If this is not working, you have to replace all the components one by one, and try to boot in between. Or test all of the components separately in another working pc if possible.

You can actually test the MB and CPU …

If the pc is able to start up sometimes, then I think it is the PSU. But it is just a guess.

You should try to replace the psu, or try it in another pc, to be sure. :)

I suggest you read this, on how and why electronic parts degrade in time.
http://spectrum.ieee.org/semiconductors/processors/transistor-aging

One very likely possibility though, is that the faulty ram can't keep up with the speed anymore. :)

I just found this guide, to do what you need: (with specific help on XP home edition)
http://forums.malwarebytes.org/index.php?showtopic=4581

Good Luck :)

okay, lots of possible reasons for this error. ;)

1. Check that cpu and ram is seated properly, and see if you didn't accidentally have bend a pin in the cpu socket (can be very hard to see, but try to look anyway)
All the ram out and re-seat them.

Also check that all other connections to the motherboard (incl. PCI) is properly seated.

2. if that doesn't help, then try the PSU in another pc (if possible), or maybe try to use another PSU. -To isolate that as a factor.

Maybe try to boot with only one RAM stick, and try the sticks in different ram slots.

3. Try to boot using another graphics card. Maybe if you have an old one, or you can borrow one somewhere.

4. Still no luck? RMA the motherboard and the PSU together (if you bought it the same place). :)

If you pc isn't going into BSOD as soon as you plug in the AC adapter, it might not be related to that.
a BSOD 15 minutes later, can be anything else. :)

The error suggest a driver issue, and you should search for updated drivers.
I am using SlimDrivers my self, which is free, and works fine.
http://www.driverupdate.net/

:)

I agree that it is time for a new pc, with those specs. :)

I would probably buy something like this pc, if it was for my self.
http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/lenovo-g570-15-6-laptop-black-10747085-pdt.html

What I think is important, is that you find a decent brand, and look for the processor model used.
Intel core i3 and i5 second generation series (like i3-"4 digit"M f.ex.), is currently my best advise. You get both low power, and good performance in that packet, and the embedded graphics is performing well enough for most purposes, as far as I have seen so far.
But you might want to ask a hardcore gamer for advise on the new intel-gpu, if you need to play gpu-intensive games. ;)

Edit:
I forgot to mention that intel 2nd. gen. core i# cpu's, have much better embedded GPU's than previous generations, so it is important to select one of those. Otherwise you might get disappointed.

The only difference between the 2100, and the 2105 is the embedded graphic's part. 2105 having the better gpu of the two.

The i3-540 is the oldest of them all, and have a different socket (lga1156), so unless you were thinking of using them with different motherboards, you can't use it with the same MB, as with the other 2. (apart from being the oldest, it is also the lesser choice of them all, given the DMI speed, only performing half the speed of the others - DMI explained here)

So, to sum it up a bit.
If you are going to use the embedded graphic's chip, the 2105 will be my advise.

If you are using another gpu anyway, then you might want to save a few $$, and buy the i3-2100 cpu.

The i3-540 can only be attractive imo, if you already have a mb, for it (assuming you otherwise would have to buy a new one), and are using an external well performing graphic's card. Otherwise I recommend you avoid it (the cpu socket is obsolete - lga1155 is the "new" socket - for now :D ).

:)

I guess your gpu get's too hot, to continue working properly.

Check if the gpu fan is running properly, and if the gpu heatsink is clean and dust free. You don't want any dust and dirt to block the airflow on the gpu heatsink. :)

You can also download the free GPU-Z utility, and check the gpu temp. on the "sensors tab"

Yes, you can install a dedicated graphics card, if there is a Pci-e x16 slot on the motherboard.
But you might have to disable the onboard graphics support in the bios, for the new gpu to work (and drivers install) properly.

I believe it might be a case of just not showing the mails (common user error)
Try to push the button (view all).

if that doesn't work, it might also be an error in the design, and you can try to replace the design by right click on the mailbox from the workspace, and select "replace design" on the menu. Then select the "default mailbox" .ntf for the notes version you use. :)

Edit:
My experience is with lotus notes 6.5, so if you are using fx. v8.x, some things might be a little different. :)

You have to set the ram frequency in the bios manually, and maybe also the right timings.

I think the reason for this, is that 1333 MHz are the maximum default for the processor. :)

Flashing the BIOS can turn your PC into a paperweight. Just saying.

ok - Worst case scenario. :)

I have flashed a couple hundred bios through the years, without any accidents.
The main thing to focus on, is to make certain that you have a stable power source for your pc, while it is flashing the bios.

Just don't pull the power from the computer, while the bios is being flashed.
And of cause, only use a bios which is intended for the specific motherboard model. (always get the new bios from manufacturer's homepage. -just for the record)

:)

edit:
also - follow the instructions on the screen, and think before you push buttons.
And if it seems to be stuck, leave it for 10 minutes (to let it finish). :)

Can you run an exe file in cmd?

If you can - then download malwarebytes antimalware

and run the full scan.
It will most likely remove the .exe-hijack. :)

Otherwise, you can try to use system restore.

I believe you are looking for the "sysinternals suite"

http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb842062

It is all free, and have everything, I can think of, that you can possibly need.
The specific part you ask for is named process explorer, and can be customized to view what you want. :)

I just came across another free tool to recover the key:
http://unlockforus.blogspot.com/2008/01/winguggle-get-your-windows-vista.html

It need to be 5 volts +/- 5% (4.75v ~ 5.25v) to be compliant to the standard USB 2.0 specification.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power

You need a better power source for your usb-hub, or a better hub (whatever is the cheapest to find) :)

Or maybe the best solution would be to get a power supply for your external dvd burner. :D

You can leave both malware scanners on your pc, since they will not conflict with your antivirus.

They are both "scan on demand", which will (should) not make any conflicts with your real time AV-engine, in the free versions.
Just remember to update the malware definitions manually before you use them.

About the malware found (mywebsearch etc.), let mbam handle them.
The missing uninstaller is part of what makes it malware. :)

I agree with caperjack that you should try to remove the virus, instead of reinstalling - it might be faster, and just as safe. :)

Anyway - you can use this tool to recover your windows key.
http://www.magicaljellybean.com/keyfinder/

I believe your cd/dvd burner need a little more power than you can provide with a single usb 2.0 connector.

You need a usb-wire like this:
[img]http://www.dragonsteelmods.com/Images/reviews/usbfever-2xcable/resize/USBCable1.jpg[/img] (thank you google, and usbfever.com :) )

You can probably use an usb-hub IF it have it's own power source. Otherwise it will not work, since it will share the 250 milli-amp's (usb v.2 power limit per connector) among all the units attached to the hub.

When you first connect the dvd-drive, a single usb connector is sufficient for the dvd to power up and identify it self, but when it try to spin up, the power limiter will kick in, and make the drive reset again (disconnect/reconnect).

I have seen a few usb burners, power-efficient enough to fully work on a single usb connector, but most of them will fail, when you try to read or burn a disc. :)

It is better to always use a cable with extra power from a second usb plug. :)

I'm sorry, I read your question as a local vs. domain "system user" :)

The LocalSystem "user" is not really a user, but rather the OS itself.
If I go to my "computer management" and look for user accounts, I can't see it on my own XP pro SP3 either, so I guess it isn't supposed to be accessible. :)

It is usually not used as a user, but if you need that kind of unlimited access, you can grant the access to "act as part of the OS" to a local user, in local security policies (control panel -> administrative tools -> local security settings, in XP pro).

So if you (or somebody else with access to your pc) have created a user with the name "system" or "local system", and granted it the right to act as part of the OS, then that could be the explanation on what it is.
If you haven't done that yourself, I suggest you run a malware scan ASAP.

It might also be a matter of updating your system, since I seem to recall that I have seen it at some time in the past, but I can't really remember for sure. ;)

Apart from that - The difference on an admin and the LocalSystem accounts, will of cause, as you mention, give you access to a few restricted areas, and options to kill any process you wish, and delete files "currently in use" probably. …

The "CTCRY 4DQFCXEJC92V SCSI CdRom Device" is your physical drive - no doubt about that.

Since you haven't posted info on which laptop model you have, I can't know what chip set or controllers is on your board, but any hdd/dvd controllers are connected through the "south-bridge" of the chip-set, so you should start with installing drivers for that.
Some laptops have integrated graphics in the southbridge also, so the original graphics driver may contain additional drivers for the chipset too.

So - go to the link posted -> find your model, and go to drivers download.
get all drivers on the page, and start installing them (remember to restart in between)
Start with low level drivers (chipset, graphics, and so on), and don't worry about if you have newer drivers installed already - windows will use the best of them anyway in most cases.
:)

Hi dare599z

temp files in various random locations, are usually caused by badly written programs.

It can be anything from a small simple game, to expensive enterprise software, and it can of cause also be malware of some sort.

If you haven't experienced any weird behavior with your system, I suggest you run a mbam (malwarebytes anti malware) scan, just to be safe, and if nothing is found, just delete the empty temp files as you come across them - or you can set up a "search and delete" script, if you are short on space f.ex. :)

A google search on the name provided, gave me this model name "GA-8INXP", which apparently have a sata controller onboard.

IF this is the right board, I recommend you read the manual, for your bios settings.
get the manual here: http://www.gigabyte.sg/products/product-page.aspx?pid=1597#manual

Or at least confirm if it is the right board, then I (or somebody else) can help explain what to change, and possibly where to find it. :)

I believe you have connected the usb case connector to an IEEE 1394a (firewire) connector on the motherboard - that would explain why you burned the stick.

Always consult the motherboard manual about where to connect case wires, unless it is obvious where they should connect.

The IEEE 1394a connector looks like the internal usb connectors, but the pin-configuration and the voltage is different.

Here is a pdf-manual on an asus board, that shows the difference on page 49-50
http://www.cizgi.com.tr/resource/vfiles/cizgi/pms_file/189/sabertooth-x58_en.pdf

I believe you have a 3 year limited factory warranty on that board, so if there isn't any physical damage, you might be in luck. :)

About your notion on the incompatible psu's, I recommend you take a look at "Hardware secrets" tutorial pages (scroll down to the Power section)

There is two "all you need to know about PSU's" which (if I remember correctly) is explaining in details, why some psu's might not be equally suited for your setup as other psu's.

It is actually a great source for deeper understanding on every hardware related issues that you might come across. ;)

Don't you need a graphics card for the POST check?

As far as I can see, there is no on-board graphics on that board.

If that is the case, it will explain why the "missing" cpu won't make a difference. :)

Otherwise, I agree with rubberman, that you should send the board in for repair.

the root account on a windows system is named administrator.

A local system user is any user account on the local machine - local admin, local limited user account, and also the guest account, if it isn't disabled.

Local accounts are first point of validation for all "user right requests" on all machines by default. (otherwise they couldn't work without domain structure)

If a pc become member in a domain, Active Directory (AD) will also become part of the validation, but local accounts does not disappear, or get disabled.

:)

I am not sure about recuva, but the second link I posted (powerdatarecovery), is able to detect the harddrive even if it isn't formatted, and even if it have defective sectors in the partition table.

I suggest you try it. (it is free for private use) :)

here it is:
Win7 x64 http://dllexedown.com/bbs/board.php?bo_table=12_seven64_eng&wr_id=3817&page=239
XP x64 SP2 http://dllexedown.com/bbs/board.php?bo_table=04_xp64_eng&wr_id=2534&page=154

Remember to follow the instruction on the site, to register the dll.
If you run vista or 7, you might have to run cmd as admin. :)

If you look at the picture (the link) in the lower left corner, You have a F-panel connector.
This is what you are looking for - check the manual to see if all the wires are in the right places before plugging it in though. :)

Hi Michael

The difference on an active and an inactive partition on a hard drive is only a few bits on the platter.
All hdd's are expected to make such an error, on very rare occasions. I think the common number is about 1 time in 10^15 read attempts, so it might just have been a freak accident.

But I suggest that you run a full diagnostic with surface scan on that particular drive, as it might also be a bad disk.
If you happen to find any other errors in the scan, I suggest you get a replacement from the dealer, before you loose any important data. :)

As far as I know, kon-boot can get you in on any windows machine.

But I know for sure that, if you encrypt your system disk with truecrypt, nobody gets in unless they know (or can guess) your encryption password. :)

You don't have to format the disk before recovering your data.

try this recovery software: http://www.piriform.com/recuva/download

or this: http://www.powerdatarecovery.com/

You will need some temporary room for all the files that you need to save, so you might have to borrow or buy another usb-disk for that purpose.

Later, when you have copied all your files, you should run a full format on the bad disk, to map out all the possibly bad sectors, before copying data back to it.

I have this link in my favorites:
http://www.slac.stanford.edu/xorg/nmtf/nmtf-tools.html

It is a pretty overwhelming list of various tools, for both general and specific tasks in network monitoring.

pick your flavor :)

Hi Owenbear

1)
It depends on how lucky you are :)
The thing that typically kills computer parts (when handling them), is electrostatic discharges (ESD).
Not necessarily at levels that can generate a spark, but more commonly is not even noticed. You can easily have a potential on a (few) hundred volts from left to right hand, which can kill a cpu instantly, if you discharge through it's pins.

So the question is - did you.?
My guess is as good as yours :) , so you have to test it, which brings us to

Question 2

I have tested several cpu's in various motherboards, without damaging the boards when the cpu's have been defective (as far as I know), but I can't give you any guaranties that it can't happen. (we are back to your level of luck I guess) :)

So my advice is to use a spare (old) board for that kind of testing, or at least a very cheap one, just in case...

If I am out of ESD safe bags, and need to store some computer parts, I usually use an old newspaper to wrap around it, as it will most likely not generate any ES by it self, and also usually will discharge any ES due to common humidity and its fibers.
I have (with luck) stored RAM blocks like this, for months without damaging them, but then again - it …

np. :)

ok, then it might have been this you had: http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows/get-vista-taskbar-thumbnail-previews-in-windows-xp/

I don't know if it will work in win7, but you can try. :)

I think something is wrong with his network drivers, or maybe he have some network "optimization" stuff running that is causing this problem.
See if you can find some new network-drivers for his laptop, and try to disable any special stuff he might have installed to change network behavior.

Also, I am puzzled that his laptop is able to crash "any" router that he connects to.
Have you tried to update firmware on the routers.?

If none of this works, you can also try to disable everything but "TCP/IP v4" on his network adapters. :)

What you want is Windows Aero preview, but you need at least windows home premium, as far as I know, to get that.

So if it is that important, you have to upgrade to home premium. :)

ok. next option :)

How did you get rid of that virus? what program did you use?
Have you scanned for malware as well (browser hijacks and stuff like that)?

I suggest to try "malwarebytes anti malware" http://www.malwarebytes.org/

download the free version, run a complete scan, and see if it finds anything. :)

If you have connection to your router (wireless access point), and don't get access to the internet.
Then you can try to restart your router - pull the power plug on it for a few seconds, and give it about 30 seconds to restart, and try again.

If this doesn't help, you should call your ISP (internet service provider), because they might have some local problems. :)

Hi Gengis

First you might want to download this manual for your pc:
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim9100/en/D86630LRs.pdf

The error "unknown disk, there is no disk in this drive" can be caused by missing SATA drivers on the XP install cd. (if bios is set to use "AHCI" under drive operation)

See page 107-110 in the manual about the bios settings.

You should make sure that the "SATA Operation" setting is set to "RAID Autodetect/ATA"

If you after that can't install XP, then you probably have a hardware error of some kind.
It can be a defective harddrive, a bad harddrive controller (motherboard problem), or a bad connection between the two.

Let's hope for the first mentioned :)