Posts by CimmerianX

I assume if you create a draft in the imap folder for outlook.com, it gets uploaded to the account as it normally would? (trying to eliminate any account setup issues)

127.0.0.1 is the localhost. From the Machine with the share, if you use \127.0.0.1\ by itself, you should see all non-hidden shares on the host. If there are no shares listed, then definately no other machines on network will see shares.

Using a cmd prompt 'net share' will list all shares including the hidden ones.

IF no shares appear, then you should double check that the drives are actually shared.

Can the main host browse the network?

Lets start with this, from a command prompt run 'net share' and past the out here.

In that list you should see the share the is offered to all laptops.

From the same machine, try mapping a drive to \127.0.0.1\<sharename> and see if it works. Post the results if you get an error.

From a laptop, can you browse the shares on the machine? \<machinename> This should show you all non-hidden shares on the target host. IF that fails you can also try \<ip address> and get results. Let me know if that works/fails.

When you attempt to connect to a share, what error are you getting on the laptop side? Timeout, auth error, etc?

That seems like a lot of routers/modems. Are these rooms huge?

Controlling access to wifi is easy enough with radius on the backend, many wifi portals also offer this type of service.

Have you considered bringing in a contractor to set this up for you....

Do you use a VPN? If the VPN client creates a new VPN interface, you also have to set it there...... This is a really stupid mechanism IMHO.

So on the metered connection in win 10, the 'metered' setting has to be set on each network interface IIRC. If you only set it for ethernet, your wifi would still have full, unfettered access.

http://www.thewindowsclub.com/set-metered-connection-in-windows-10

Sorry - my bad, its not a -v, its a -c

find . -name "*.gr2" -exec sh -c 'mv $1 $(echo $1 | cut -f 4 -d"_")' _ {} \;

This will get you what you want.... working from the input list in your post:

find . -name "*.gr2" -exec sh -v 'mv $1 $(echo $1 | cut -f 4 -d"_")' _ {} \;

Nas4Free and FreeNas are both opensourced. With Ipad and itunes, you need to run bonjour services locally as it is does not route natively unless you run DNS trickery. Access from the road is doable from almost any NAS but I would really recommend placing your files/nas in a private network and connecting via VPN to your network while on the road.

Using VLC, it can boost volume 200% of original. I've had to use that often.
In Media Player, you can enable the equalizer then jack all the controls up to 90%.... might be a bit static like, but you'll get more volume.

Did it work? Status?

@Siva_10.... No it's not. Sorry, but for any of that to work, a thief has to take the laptop onto a live wifi network. Plus you would have to have no credentials on the unit.... just start right into your workspace. For a laptop worth a few hundred.... is it really worth the risk of all your info out in the open. Better to encrypt the drive and claim the laptop stolen on insurance.

IF the CPU fan isn't turning, just change that fan. Also, some MBs shut down the fans based on temp.... in BIOS there may be a setting to have fan run all the time.

Depending on your CPU and cooling, the fans are usually very simple to swap. THe Fan is usually screwed onto the heat sync on top of the cpu. a lever will typically hold the heat sync in place on top of the CPU. pop the heat sync off, unscrew the fan and unplug it from the board. Buy the exact replacement from amazon or monoprice or anywhere. Get some new heat sync compound too. Screw fan to heat sync, apply compound between cpu and heatsync, secure heatsync back on, and plug in the fan to the board.

Check your current DNS settings. From a command prompt with 'ipconfig /all' . What are your dns servers?

Once you have dns IPs, use nslookup to check.

nslookup
www.google.com
<you should get an answer here with IPs, if you don't, your DNS servers are wrong>
server 8.8.8.8
www.google.com
<you should get IPs here, if you don't, your outbound access is having issues going to 8.8.8.8>

"sudo umount /dev/sdc1 /media/Archive/
At this moment all files inside of the /media/Archive/ gone "

Well yes.... all files are gone because you just unmounted the drive. The drive is still on the system, just not mounted so it will still show in 'df'.

1) that pop up in safe mode is 100% normal. Its simply telling you 'you are in safe mode'.

2) A machine that powers off for no reason is usually indicative of a heat issue or power supply issue. I would get a can of air for a few bucks, open up the system and blow out all the dust in the fans, vents, and powersupply then retest. A faulty power supply can be swapped with another, matching power supply as a test. More serious issues can be cpu overheating, components coming loose form the board....

3) if mouse/kbd work in safe mode, but not normal mode, then do this. Run msconfig.... in this window you can disable startup items from launching in normal mode. Disable everything, then start normally. IF it works, then some program is breaking your usb/mouse/kbd. Start enabling items one by one, reboot and testing each step. Eventually, you'll find your culprit.

@rubberman... Would this work for a USB/external disk. I've always used UID for USB drives since the dive may get plugged into a different USB and perhaps get a different sd#. And yes if you clone, the UID will change... but dude, how often are you cloning your drives?

You need GPT and NTFS.... if it's just going to be used for Redhat, then go ext4.

To mount automatically on each boot, use /etc/fstab to mount the drive via UID.

Also, there could be a heat issue in your machine if airflow is blocked or fans aren't spinning at correct speeds.

You can buy a can of compressed air for a few dollars. Use it to blow though the small vents on the unit and remove any dust buildup. IIRC there are utilities on the mac that will report on fan health also. Make sure they all work and spin properly.

It's going to be that.... I'll bet.

DNS server is either not forwarding, or is forwarding to old dns servers.

If you need to add dns forwarders.... 8.8.8.8 or 4.2.2.1/4.2.2.2 are reliable choices.

From server at 192.168.0.3. It is the DNS for the network. Thus it should also have Forwarders setup in it's DNS config so that anything it can't resolve gets sent out to another 3rd party dns server (i.e. 8.8.8.8 or 4.2.2.1).

From the client, if you can ping something internally, but dns fails when going to an external site, then the Forwarders are probably incorrect.

On a client or even on the server, check dns by opening a command prompt:

NSLOOKUP
server 8.8.8.8
www.google.com
<here you should see a response showing google's ip>
server 192.168.0.3
www.google.com
<here, if you get a timeout, the server is not forwarding dns requests outbound or is blocked going out a tcp/udp 53>

Can you copy any normal file to the USB?

I would suspect that during extraction to the usb or even the move to the USB, your Anti virus may be catching the files and quarantining them. Thus they never make it to the USB.

We would need alot more info. Slowdown can occur because of any number of issues. From HD issues, to memory issues, to bad cabling, to incorrect network settings.... Just to name a few.

Give details on the machine, compare to a working machine, what have you checked already and what clues can you provide.

Which company hosts your DNS. HAve you updated your DNS entries if at a 3rd party?

Finally... Glad to hear it.

Darin's Boot n Nuke is an ISO image you can DL and burn to a bootable media (usb/CD/etc...)

I will securely erase the entire disk without relying on the manufacturer.

On most dells, you should still be able to request a downgrade to Win7. I was still getting win7 laptops up to the last order I placed back in Dec. If not, request a copy of the win7 recovery OEM USB key, I can use mine to restore any win7 dell with a oem win lic.

I would not recommend splitting a cable and running 2 pair to the bungalow for Ethernet if you want to get max speed and reliability. You certainly could, but it would not be to spec.

As long and you get the strongly insulated cable, it really doesn't matter where you run it... however I will remind you that critters, especially rats, will eat the insulation. So if it were me, I'd choose to run it under the archway. IF you want to go along the ground, then 1/2" PVC is a good idea.

He absolutely promised me that my personal data would not be touched (pinky swear cross my heart).

Wow - such BS. I have never had such problems will any Dell replacement.
By this time, I would escalate up to a manager to review the case. It should seriously not take this long. Especially with the tech loading the wrong BIOS.

Good question. Is it a CD or a 2nd HD?

Does the Disk show up in Disk Manager?

Use the install media and run the installation. It should give you the option to repair the installation.

IF there is no repair option, I would just remove and reinstall to get a clean copy on there. That will be the quickest fix.

I use Mint and Windows since my job has different requirements. I prefer Mint as my main workstation and I use all the productivity tools there.... libreoffice, thunderbird for Exchange mail/calendar access, Cisco ASA ASDM runs through Java, All web based stuff works fine.

I needed to keep windows in a Virtual box VM for:
Photoshop, Vegas Vid Editing, vSPhere Thick Client, and a handful of other tools that are win only.

It works great for me and that's just my 2 cents.

If you have an archway between the 2, running a wire over or along the underside is preferrable to digging a 4 meter trench. Your back will thank you.

I asked the distance just to be sure you weren't exceeding the specs for distance.

PPTP and ipsec/L2tp are native to windows... anything else requires a 3rd party client. (I prefer OpenVPN myself).

You either run pptp endpoint on the router or you forward the port internally to the windows server and set that up as your endpoint. Not both... I mention it because it was not very clear in your port.

Other than that, I would need to see your steps...or your current config.
Are you following a guide, lets get a link there too.
Are you using your perimeter router as endpoint? I'll need make/model and your current config.

Lastly, how dod you setup the client? And what errors do you see at what point in the process.

More detail the better.

How far of a run would it be from house to bungalow?

I've done this before. I wired my shed to my house for ethernet and did exactly what you describe.... just dug a shallow trench and piped two ethernet cat 5 through a PVC. I added an S curve at each end, filled the end with sealing foam. I ran 2 cables, just because I wanted a backup and since I had the extra cable... no reason not to do it. Sealed it to keep out bus and water at the shed side... the house side ran up the wall and into the soffit space.

FYI, the 20' trench took longer to dig than anything else... and I was exausted when done.

Oh - and i can confirm that Domain Members on win 7 are also seeing the update to win 10 icon.

Fuck you again MS.

I hid the KB and created a read only GMX.exe, the update came back, ignoring the 'hide' , and it overwrote my read only GMX.exe file as well.

This is a goddamn virus....

Sorry for the trouble.... I've used Dell's for my company for years... never had an issue with repairs myself. But sometimes it depends on the Tech you get too I suppose.

At least they are replacing it finally.

The Win10 update is now a recommended upgrade. IF you have automatic updates enabled, you'll be in for a surprise when win 10 is your OS in the morning.

To fix, I disabled Auto updates.
Task manager -> Kill the GWX.exe process
In add/remove programs, look for installed win updates and remove KB3035583
Create a file c:\windows\system32\GWX\GWX.exe file and mark it as read only (you may have to create the file in My Documents and copy it into the GWX folder.
Reboot
Run Disk Cleanup, Select the Advanced system cleanup.
Remove the Temporary File that is 8-9 GB in size (this is the win 10 install crap).
Windows Update - search for updates.
In recommended, uncheck KB3035583 and Hide It.
Reboot 1 last time and you are good to go.

+1 for ninite. I use that all the time, especially for Classic Shell to 'fix' the windows menu in ver 8 and 10.

Rubberman is correct.

On the 2011, 13" macs, you can remove the bottom by unscrewing the tiny screws along the base plate. There are 2 sizes of screws, so keep careful note of what size screw came out of what hole. Pull the cover off with gentle force...use a flat head screwdriver to wedge the cover off. There will be sticky stuff holding it down. Clean the fans of dust then put it all back together.

Seems like a lot of space for windows system.
Try the following tools. I use them myself frequently. It will give you information and the ability to clear space.

WinDirStat - This will scan the disk and visually show you a representation of file sizes and locations.

CCleaner - This will scan your disk and identify files that can usually be removed (e.g. temp folder files, large downloads). Double check what you will clean up before using it, IE history and cached PWs can be on the list for example.

How about this one:
http://computers.toptenreviews.com/gaming/digital-storm/digital-storm-vanquish-3-review.html
$800.00 built.

I agree with rprofitt. portableapps is great. You can carry apps on a usb and use them where you want. It has value especially when , like me, you carry an arsenal of tools on a Read only USB for malware cleanup, etc...

+1 for using a powerline adapter to get a device to other side of the house without running cable. So long as your outlets are on the same panel, you should be ok.

The best way to extend wifi is to use a 2nd access point as noted above. Cable comes out of powerline eth, into new AP eth, and you can plug in 3 more devices and have wifi from same AP.

If powerline is not available, the Mac Airports allow you to extend the wifi signal. So if you have 1 AP acting as router.... you can place another airport somewhere in the house. It will 'extend' the existing wifi signal and give you some better range without cabling. The big downside to this is that on every wifi AP 'hop' you lose 50% of your bandwidth. So if you have a 40 Mbps signal from main AP to the extending AP, any clients connected to the extended AP would max at 20 Mbps. Add another AP further down the chain and now you are at 10 Mbps max per client. The big PRO to this is that you only need 1 SSID that is shared between Airports.

I've used this type of solution in a pinch with Airports and NetGears worrking in conjunction.

Cabling up a new AP somewhere is the house is still the best method.

The wifi can run dual 5 and 2.4.... this has nothing to do with the powerline adapter, unless the powerline adapter is wireless and is used as a wifi extender.

What is the make/model of the powerline adapter?

Question 1: When you are in bootcamp, are you connectiong to the Powerline adapter with cable, or wifi. I want to establish if this is a wifi extender of sorts or a more traditional powerline ethernet adapter.

Question 2: If you move closer to the router and plug in there, can windows connect? This takes powerline out of the equation.

You could just run it on the Mac side. Why the need for virtual windows?

The Outlook OST file could be re-created. In the local application fodlers, just search for the .ost file. Close outlook, delete the .ost, then re-open outlook. The OST file will be recreated when you open outlook. This might take a few minutes. When done, close and reopen outlook and check the speed.

Is this the only outlook user on the network that complains of slowdown?
Is outlook server remote or local?

Confirmed it's down for me too.
telnet towel.blinkenlights.nl
Trying 94.142.241.111
telnet: Unable to connect to remote host: Network is unreachable

Just give it time and see if it comes back up.

Wow - who came in here and voted down every comment? Some MS fanboy I suppose